Memo: First Bite offers an opinionated peek at a restaurant that opened in the past month or so, based on one meal.

THE FOOD: This high-end franchise, sibling to Sullivan's and Lone Star, considers USDA Prime beef its signature - plus a bit of cold-water Australian lobster tail. And the steak is indeed big-flavored and delicious - and a la carte, and expensive (about $39 for a 12-ounce filet; $35 for a 16-ounce ribeye). It's also carefully cooked to order: Medium rare means a hot red center here, and the staff asks you to cut into the center of your steak as soon as it arrives (a brilliant strategy for avoiding complaint). Also top-notch: a crab cake with no bread crumbs. If only they didn't come on a sea of Cajun lobster sauce that effectively negates their flavor. Order them with the sauce on the side. Everything with the steak is a la carte, and sides are of decent size, as are salads. Chateau potatoes are not the sauteed version traditionally served with Chateaubriand; they're skin-on mashed, with lots of pepper, while Spinach Supreme is a richer version (with cheddar and bacon) of creamed.

THE LOOK: It's much publicized that this was a $10 million upfit, and rich woodwork and an amazing metal banister on the set-piece staircase seem to be where the money went. Handsome without being mind-numbingly men's-club-ish, this has tall windows (with screens that rise at dusk), comfortable and well-spaced seating and three floors of interesting areas, from the upstairs overlook to the lowest-floor wine cellar.
THE SERVERS: Some of us will recall the female servers' outfits from our cocktail waitressing days a few decades ago (black top; black hose; black short, short skirt) but retro is always cool. And when folks know the menu, as ours did - well, competence is very cool.

DETAILS: 4725 Piedmont Row Drive; 704-552-5502. 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, to 11 Friday-Saturday; entrees about $28-$47.

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