Venue Review: Soiree

The first thing I heard about Soiree was that it was run by a passel of ex-country-club chefs, which evokes a pretty specific image, depending on one's experience with country clubs. Or lack thereof.

So we'll all be a little surprised.

Soiree skillfully blends lush, interesting food - not stodgy, not silly - in a handsome and historic Mooresville setting, with service that's warm without being clingy, competent without being cold. A terrific middle ground.

Pronounced swah-ray, its name comes from the French word for "evening" and denotes an evening party (though it does lunch and a Sunday brunch, too). And chefs Jon Spencer, his brother Michael, and Alan Jackson have created a French-based Continental, festive lineup with staying power.

That is one of the main differences Jon Spencer sees between this venture and their club work - which includes Charlotte, Myers Park and Rolling Hills country clubs and The Point in this area, and others in North Carolina , Florida and Louisiana.

"We were so used to changing menus so frequently in a country club, because you're feeding the same people over and over. When you do one menu and it's popular (in a restaurant), it's surprising, the longevity of it."

Soiree opened in late January and hasn't done a seasonal menu change yet, but particular items have been swapped in and out. Spencer says the kitchen's using more local ingredients as summer progresses, and people keep giving the chefs tips on where to find stuff in the area.

I was struck by the perfection of a foie gras first plate, the vibrancy of bronzed Pacific salmon over a crab and herb tamale with a lovely mole sauce derivative, and the earthiness of rack of lamb with pear-whipped potatoes (yes) and half a small stuffed yellow squash.

The chef's cakes - a meld of lump crab, lobster and scallop - and grilled artichokes over arugula and grated Asiago with both lemon sorrel vinaigrette and garlic aioli show the kitchen's range of delicacy and assertiveness. And every plate looks nice; again, not frilly, not staid, but an attractive place between the two.

We had "double bone-in pork chop" that turned out to be two (fine though not immensely thick) chops over rich cheddar-jack grits and a mound of braised spinach. Grilled halibut fared well, too, hefty and moist. Entrees include five seafood, three chicken and five meat dishes, among them the gutsily unexplained "teres major": This is the newest thing in beef (after flat-iron steaks), a luscious muscle also known as shoulder tender, similar to filet but less expensive.

Speaking of which, Soiree manages to keep exploration reasonable. Might you not try that steak with roasted-corn-poblano sauce at $17? And for $4, aren't you more likely to risk Key lime panna cotta, or fried bananas (in Greek-loukoumades-like batter) with local honey and housemade ginger ice cream? Conservatives aren't out of luck, with dishes like chicken with lemon-caper beurre blanc and simple chocolate cake.

Maria Spencer, also a partner (as is Lindsley Ruth) and married to Jon, runs the front of the house, and worked on its design. Here again is a smart mix: bright artwork hung in a mezzanine overlooking interesting lighting, subdued by golden walls, bare brick and gorgeous hardwood floors in what was once the Rankin department store (ask about the elevators, too). A second dining room is upstairs; the whole place seats 350 but manages not to feel cavernous.

Compromise is so often dull. Let's celebrate a place that's chosen this middle path beautifully.

***1/2 Stars

KEY: ****= excellent; ***= good; **= fair; *= poor

Soiree

104 South Main St., Mooresville; 704-660-9106; www.soireeonmain.com

Food:***1/2 Stars

Setting:***1/2 Stars

Service:***1/2 Stars

ENTREE PRICES: Lunch $6 to $11. Dinner $16 to $26.

HOURS: Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; dinner 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, to 10 Friday-Saturday; brunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; bar stays open until midnight or 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday.

CREDIT CARDS: MC, Visa, AE, Discover.

RESERVATIONS: Recommended, particularly on weekends.

NOTES: Seats 350 plus banquet room holding 75-80; interesting vegetable first plates and sides, though no vegetarian menu entrees.