Memo: First Bite offers an opinionated peek at, not a full-fledged review of, a restaurant that opened in the past month or so, based on one meal.

THE FOOD: This newest Sonoma, moved to Founders Hall, kicks off with a short menu: seven entrees, 10 starters and four salads, though of course there's the jillion and a half wines (and nearly two dozen by the glass) you've come to expect from the franchise. Also predictable: an unpredictable lineup of ingredients clustered in interesting ways by chef Tim Groody. Like rabbit with wild mushrooms, celeriac, acorn squash and pearl onions. Filet with dried cherry barley risotto, beets, Swiss chard and sugar snaps. Chunks of lobster and crawfish in a little cake of potato hash. Sweetbreads with prosciutto, ribbons of lemon peel and rich pinenuts.

THE LOOK: You'll have to bob and weave under a temporary stucco entrance and billows of scaffolding above, but once inside, the place is linear and urbane: That's dark, dark woods and frosted glass panels encasing a room with a view (of the wine storage) and another, larger private space. One length of dining room is a leather banquette with a step-up matte-silver rail; sit here and you can peer back into the bar as well as ponder the angular tiled decoration above the four-abreast booths opposite you. Those tired of red and black will greet the silvery greens and rich beiges here with relief.
THE SERVERS: With black attire and coolness to match, they're familiar with the lineup and not afraid to recommend.

WHO'S THERE AND WHAT THEY'RE WEARING: A very light Monday night produced few diners (folks still don't know it's open, I'm told): a few in big-city black, a party in jeans and one in dress-up clothes.

DETAILS: 100 N. Tryon St.; though it's in Founders Hall, entering from Tryon is easier than going through the hall; (704) 332-1132. Dinner nightly; entrees $19-$29. Lunch is on the way.

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