Venue Review: 1900 Mexican Grill

At its best, 1900 Mexican Grill is a little neighborhood spot that manages to bridge the gap between the simple sit-down taquerias of South Boulevard and Central Avenue and the brightly colored Mexican American chains of – everywhere.

It's not as plain as the taquerias, and its most rustic fare isn't as good, either. But its food does beat fajita-and-nacho-heavy American-leaning spots, and gets a warmer delivery.

With a curvy décor that puts a high premium on color – hot pink ceiling, bright blue chairs, tables of orange and blue tiles – and Diego Rivera-style artwork, it creates a cheery atmosphere. The servers we had all recommended with ease and moved with speed, and with a merry soundtrack at an occasionally notable volume, bustle is all around you.

I tried a dish of carnitas (braised pork) and enchiladas de mole, both recommended by a server, with mixed success.

The mole (pronounced moh-lay) worked fine: a dark rich sauce with a bit of roasted, earthy flavor, though not the sort of depth and complexity you hope for in this traditional concoction. (Puebla and Oaxaca are the most noted for it, and the first typically uses chocolate, and pairs the sauce with turkey – but recipes vary.) It was served with shredded chicken enchiladas that were also workable: reasonable size, some bits of chicken juicy, some less so.

The carnitas, though, definitely tended to the dry, without either a caramelized or melting quality. Served with flour tortillas (I guess because I didn't specify), they also were accompanied by fluffy rice and nicely thick refried beans.

Our server also steered us toward the Tex-Mex fajitas, and this was the least successful dish we had: dry, tough hunks of chicken and steak came with peppers and onions that were much better than the meats. Even if it hadn't cost $14.95, this dish would have disappointed.

Enchiladas verdes, blanketed thickly with mozzarella, were a better choice, although I wished for a less rubbery, Mexican cheese. The green chile sauce boasted some bright flavor – on the whole, these enchiladas tasted fresher and moister. A plate of arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) also was smothered with cheese, but was otherwise tender and appropriately comforting.

The menu is fairly brief. Rather than long lists of combos and mix-and-matches, the dinner lineup offers just a few, plus some appetizers, salads, fajitas, sandwiches and a full page of “favorites” such as chiles rellenos and mole. Note that tacos in the combo section come with flour tortillas, lots of melted cheese and lettuce, and are filled with ground beef, shredded beef, spinach or chicken. If you want corn tortillas and pork with cilantro and onions, like a taqueria's, they're listed under “Tacos Mexicanos.”

Maria DeGarcia, born in Guanajuato northwest of Mexico City, owns the place with her husband, Jesus, and it's run by their son, Jose Garcia. She's involved with two Gastonia restaurants, but this is the first with her husband, and they're continuing to tweak it. For example, the tequila list was just bumped up to 35, and they're offered in samplers and a variety of margaritas.

Tucked into the tiny Harris Teeter shopping center at Park Road and Selwyn, this is an accessible spot. If it's a compromise, at least it's making an effort.